Irishman sets up sushi stall on Exmouth Market

By Anh Nguyen

A SUSHI stall with a difference opened up on Exmouth Market this week. Derry Nairn is not your average sushi chef. He is Irish - and a vegetarian.

So how did does a 24-year-old man from Wicklow, Ireland get involved with selling Japanese food in Clerkenwell?

“I studied history and politics at University College Dublin, and I spent my third year abroad, in Japan. To earn money, I worked in the kitchen of a restaurant where the mama-san [Japanese female manager] of the hotel taught me how to make sushi.”

That was two years ago, and nowMr Nairn lives in Finsbury Park after he left Ireland to follow girlfriend Alex Calder, who was study in London. She also helps out on the stall, which he runs on Fridays and Saturdays.

Although business is slow because of the cold weather, Mr Nairn is still optimistic about the business.

“The response has been very good. A Japanese man said he really liked the fish and the miso soup. Though I might try making some tempura for next week, which is fried vegetables and stuff, so it’s warmer.”

Being a vegetarian, Mr Nairn does not eat fish. He quickly taught himself how to make sushi with fish, however, when he decided to set up the stall.

“I just learn from cookbooks. It’s very easy really.”

No matter how easy it is, it takes a long time for Mr Nairn to prepare for each day at the market.

“On a typical day, I get up at four or five in the morning. I make sushi for four hours. I then pack 40 boxes of sushi and make two trips to set up the stall. Then I sell sushi for six hours.”

Although he enjoys making and selling sushi, he is not sure if he wants to do it for the rest of his life.

“I’d like to be the new Jamie Oliver, and I’m planning to set up at Broadway market too.”

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